My Pilgrimage to Bagno Vignoni: Tuscany’s 16th Century Thermal Bath
My weekend in Tuscany placed me in the heart of the beautiful Val d’Orcia region of Italy. The region is known for its rolling hills, cypress trees, quaint towns, and variety of local Italian products such as wine and cheeses from the area. After an incredible day spent relaxing in the small, personal, natural hot springs pools at the Bagni San Filippo (read all about these amazing springs here), I was looking forward to seeing more of the natural surroundings and also head to another thermal area in Tuscany, Bagno Vignoni.
Getting There
One of the beautiful things about small Tuscan towns like San Quirico, where I was staying, is how quaint and removed they are from the busier, more touristy cities in Italy. One of the downsides is that everything closes on Sunday. Everything. Grocery store, shops in town, busses. I was prepared for the store, but the lack of busses made things a little more difficult. While Bagni Vignoni is easily accessible on most days by bus, if you are planning on going there on a Sunday, bring a car.
Tuscany’s rows of cypress trees are particularly enchanting.
The Hike
Since busses weren’t available, I was “forced” to take the scenic route, which entailed a 3 mile long hike to Bagni Vignoni, for a round trip total hike of 6 miles. Fortunately the weather forecast was clear, and I was more than happy to get to see the Tuscan hills from the road (although my traveling companion was certain we were going to get hit by a car).
Needless to say the scenic route did not disappoint. Along the way I delighted in the nature that surrounded me. I encountered some of the greenest grass I’ve ever seen, fields of budding flowers, rows of cypress trees leading to gorgeous Tuscan homes, as well as the Orcia river, the river the “Valley of the Orcia” is named after.
Historic Bagni Vignoni
Hiking to Bagni Vignoni seemed even more appropriate as this thermal area has been a popular tourist destination since ancient Roman times. Its attraction increased during the medieval ages, when Northern European pilgrims trekking along the Via Francigena en route to Rome would stop at these thermal waters to rest, bathe, and relax after a long journey on the road.
Bagni Vignoni is located in the same location as the ancient town, and features a 16th century “Square of Sources,” or rectangular pool area in which the spring brings forth warm, sulfurous water.
Towards the back of the pool you can see where water bubbles up from the spring.
For the modern visitor, it is impossible to bathe in this medieval pool, however, in the past important visitors such as Pope Pius II, Lorenzo the Magnificent, and Catherine of Siena frequented these healing waters.
The town used to be home to a mill, these ruins as well as long forgotten milling equipment point to the town’s industrial past.
The Town Today
The town itself is worth exploring, with cute gift shops selling more interesting souvenirs than seen in many tourist shops, restaurants that looked lovely (I packed a lunch), and gorgeous historic architecture. Throughout the day I noted the relatively small number of tourists there, and enjoyed the fact that I heard no English.
The ruins are stunning to see as they overlook beautiful countryside.
It felt like a tourist destination for Italians looking for a relaxing, yet historically interesting day or weekend out. If you are hoping to enjoy a spa like experience nearby, there are modern alternatives available to experience a day of relaxation.
The Thermal Area
The waters from the medieval thermal pool are carried underground and come up a few hundred yards away near the edge of the hill Bagno Vignoni is situated on.
This small stream was colorful due to the warm thermal waters coursing through.
The warm water flows down a narrow channel and over the side of the hill, creating a waterfall effect. This area of the town was my favorite, as the sulphur deposits created a colorful and interesting natural landmark set against Tuscany’s hills.
The view of the hills, sulfur deposits, and thermal waterfall from this lookout point was unforgettable!
The entire hillside is covered with the yellowish-white chemical deposits, where a small but steady stream of water continues down the hillside, finally collecting in several small pools at the base of the hill. The water in these pools is also not warm or deep enough to swim in, but their unique, clear blue color make it worth the trip down the rocky hillside to see.
The water collects in two bools at the bottom of the hill.
All in all it was an excellent day trip, although I won’t lie I was ready to relax back at home after the hike. I thought these springs were an excellent way to see something new and unexpected in the heart of Tuscany. If you find yourself within the Val d’Orcia, Bagno Vignoni is an excellent stop, however if I had to pick I would choose a day in Bagni San Filippo over Bagno Vignoni.
Would these springs make it on your list of things to see in Tuscany?
